Check out my photos of the trip at: flickr.
EDIT 23/11/20: So, nine years almost to the day, I’ve come back to the blog for some reflection and much needed updates. I never did get round to completing this page, but having reminisced about my trip many times (even more so during these lockdown covid times), I realised that I really should get my thoughts down while I can.
What I thought …
Overall, the trip was amazing. Physically, it was arduous, and I was very lucky with the group of people I ended up trekking with. I could not have picked a nicer, funnier group of complete strangers to share this experience with.
The guides and all the Nepalese we encountered en route were the most joyous people I’ve encountered in the world. It might just be rose-tinted glasses after all these years, but my memories are filled with the thoughts of their huge smiles, in spite of the cold and harsher way of life. The cynic in me says they were glad we were there with our money, but we were happy to be received with smiles, all the same.
Today, after numerous years of hiking and climbing, my left knee occasionally gives me the problems I first encountered descending from base camp. This trip probably cost me a quite a bit of cartilage in my legs. I was very fortunate in my naivety - I went out there totally clueless, having never camped, or hiked, or flown long distances on my own, to a totally foreign country, completely on my own, and managed to have such a fantastic experience speaks a lot to how well organised the whole trip was.
I never spent too much time wandering about on my own, and certainly not in Kathmandu - my groupmates were happy enough for us all to stick together for our exploring (after our guides had clocked off home), and as I was on my own (and kinda dependent on them for company) was very glad. It cannot be overstated how economically poor a country like Nepal is, and when tourists come flying in laden with cash, locals find them very hard to ignore. I found the attention to be bordering on harrassment, and given that I’m a non-white adult male, I probably got off light. Out in the mountains, this is not so much a problem - everyone seems more trustworthy and (genuinely) friendly.
What problems did I encounter …
My prior hiking experience was practically nil. As such, I went out with gear which I did not know to be useful or reliable. I was very lucky going out with brand new boots - a blister would’ve stopped my trip dead on the first day. As mentioned, I had issues with my knee, on coming down, and would I have been a more seasoned hiker, I would’ve taken trekking poles (or bought some while I was there).
I was quite snobby with my gear - only buying my own and refusing to rent or purchase fake brands out in Nepal. In truth, I could’ve saved myself a whole load of packing (and money!) if I had bought a cheap counterfeit-brand down jacket and sleeping bag in Kathmandu, and donated it away to the guides at the end of the trip.
Because we had to delay the start of our trek, we ended up having to stay in Kathmandu for longer, and that meant having to spend more money than I would’ve liked.
What did I not like …
In general, I was not a fan of Kathmandu at all, but it was an important lesson in how the rest of the world lives, away from our comfortable Western lives. I found it hard not to focus on the pollution, and general poverty of the city. I was always only really interested in the trek, and to this day, I’m not a massive fan of city breaks.
Highlights …
Despite the initial doubts over the weather, it really worked out for us - we had perfect weather for the whole duration of our trek. The photos I managed to take on my very not-professional camera came out looking far better than I’d ever have expected.
After a day spent with the group, it was always nice to disappear off on my own to my own room where I could sit by myself and read for a while. It was also nice to be left to manage myself in the mornings.
What I’d do differently next time …
I’ve been on many trips since, and while I will probably not do this particular trip again (I fear my knees would not survive) I have definitely learnt some lessons along the way.
Keep your wits about you all the time. It only takes a moments lack of concentration to lose your most valuable belongings, which is sometimes more about the inconvenience than anything else. Take multiple memory cards for whatever you’re taking photos on, and swap between them regularly - a lost or stolen device can be replaced, but photos of moment in time cannot.
As mentioned elsewhere, I think I’d take some device capable of voice recordings for note taking (dictaphone, or phone, but remember the minimal power availability). With the best of intentions, there were nights when I couldn’t bring myself to write down notes of the day. Along the same lines, I would also encourage photos to be taken of everything, no matter how inconsequential they might seem - they’ll be interesting years later when you’ve forgotten the little details.
I’ve learned my lesson since, but always make sure to only pack the stuff you’ll use - I packed a super warm fleecy jumper which I hardly ever wore ‘cos I hate jumpers. As mentioned, the sleeping mat was a waste of time, and the thermal leggings were a hassle. Always take more of what cheers you up - being cold from the climate and sweaty from the exertion made me a miserable trekker. I wish I had lots more of the basics: socks, t-shirts, plain comfortable (non-technical) clothes. You’ll definitely need more than one pair of socks a day!
Also pack non-melty sweets, like Haribo. When you feel naff, you’ll still be able to get these down. Chocolate will melt or freeze solid.
A problem which I’ve personally encountered, and suspect is actually quite common when trekking is chafing in the pants region, especially when you’ve picked up a bit of a stomach bug. I’d suggest taking vaseline or sudocrem, to be packed with all the other awkward medical essentials (immodium).
Take, or buy wet-wipes - you might not always get to have showers or get to wash while you’re out. They’ll also be useful if you need to clean your hands and there’s no water around.